Gardening with edible berries

RASPBERRIES

Position

Choose a sunny site sheltered from winds.

Most soils are suitable but a bit of preparation prior to planting is well worth the effort as they will remain in the same position for 10 – 12 years.
Dig a row 30cm deep by 1m wide, working in generous amounts of well-rotted compost. Allow 1.5 m between rows if more than one row is being planted in order to let the roots spread freely and give space to move around the bushes for cultivation and fruit picking.

Summer fruiting raspberries need support during the growing season to keep them tidy and aid picking. Put the support poles and wires in place after digging, but before planting. Place posts at either end of the row to support wires at 75 cm, 1 m and 1.5 m from the ground and tie the canes loosely to them. Place the plants in the trench about 45cm apart, and cover the roots with soil 5cm above the existing soil mark on the stem. This will encourage more vigorous rooting. Firm down the soil by lightly treading it down and water if the soil is not moist.

Finally, cut the plants to 15cm from the ground. This may seem a bit drastic but if the correct pruning for the first year is not carried out, the plants will be seriously weakened.

Autumn fruiting raspberries do not require strong supports, and therefore do not need to be planted in rows. Simply devote an area to them and let them grow as they want. The plants will mostly support themselves with only the odd bit of help from some sticks in strategic positions.

Care

Pruning

Varieties

Waiau - Large fruit during January.
Southland - Double cropping, medium sized fruit
Autumn Bliss - Double cropping, large soft fruit
Qualicum - Heavy summer cropping

CURRANTS

A smallish bush, which can be easily squeezed into any garden as a hedging border or as a stand-alone specimen. A mixture of red, white and black currants make a unique feature in your garden and in the kitchen.
Rich in vitamin C. The darker the colour of fruit the better it is for you.
Harvest clusters of berries and freeze whole, eat fresh or make into delicious jams, jellies or sauces. Red currants are more tart than white.

Position

Care

Pruning

Black Currants
If planting in winter, prune all shoots back hard to within one bud of soil level.
Second year, remove only the weak or damaged shoots or those that are growing horizontally or downwards.

Black currants fruit most freely on shoots formed the previous summer, which are smooth and tea coloured. Cut out older wood at the base immediately after fruiting. Prune low, horizontal branches to a strong outward-growing shoot to restrict growth.

Retain strong two-year-old wood with plenty of side shoots.
Remove less productive two-year-old wood with few side-shoots.

Red and White Currants
Fruit is produced on spurs on older wood.
At planting cut back the leading shoot by half its previous years growth. Cut back all other shoots to one bud.
Year 1 onwards
Summer. When new shoots have at least seven or eight leaves, prune back to five leaves.
Year 2 onwards
Winter. Prune new growth on the leading shoot by a quarter each winter, cutting to a bud on the opposite side to the previous year. Gradually replace main shoots as they become old and loose vigour.
Maintain the bush in a vase shape with the centre kept clear.

Varieties

Magnus - Erect bush, fruit ripens late December into January.
Goliath - Large spreading bush, large fruit ripens January.

GOOSBEERRIES

Rich in pectin with good levels of Vitamin C, they are ideal for sauces, jams, preserves, pickles and jellies. Their tartness is an excellent foil for oily fish, poultry or meat. They also make a good filling for crumbles or pies.

Position

Care

Pruning

 

To read our July gardening calendar, click here >>